Ezcaray: the mountain Rioja the wine tour forgets
Ezcaray is the mountain town in La Rioja that most wine tourists drive straight past. It sits in the Sierra de la Demanda, on the river Oja, where the vineyards end and the beech forests begin. The old centre is one of the best preserved in the region — arcaded squares and honey-coloured stone. Come for the cool air, the valley walks, and a kitchen few small towns in Spain can match.
Why Visit Ezcaray
Most people know La Rioja for its wine towns on the plain. Ezcaray is the other Rioja — up in the mountains at the western edge of the region. The town grew rich on wool. In the 18th century a royal cloth factory here employed close to a thousand people. Their trade paid for the fine stone houses you still walk past today. That factory now holds the town hall and a hostel.
Who Ezcaray is for
What you notice first is the air. Ezcaray sits at around 800 metres, so summer days stay cooler than the baking plains below. The centre is small and easy to walk, built around porticoed squares like the Plaza del Quiosco and the Plaza de la Verdura. Under the arcades sit bars and small shops, and the pace is slow. In winter the town fills with skiers heading up to Valdezcaray. In summer it fills with walkers and families escaping the heat. It suits the traveller who wants Spain without the crowds and without the sun-baked squares — a base, not a tick-box sight.
Day trip or overnight?
You can see the centre of Ezcaray in an afternoon. But that means leaving just as the day-trippers go and the town settles into its evening. Our honest advice is to stay the night. A good short visit looks like this: arrive by mid-afternoon and walk the arcaded squares while the light is warm, then step into the church of Santa María la Mayor. Have an early drink under the porticoes, then a long dinner. Next morning, walk part of the Oja greenway before the day heats up, or drive up to the ermita for the view over the rooftops. None of that fits into a day trip — which is rather the point.
What to See in Ezcaray
Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor
The church stands in the heart of the old town. It was built between the 12th and 16th centuries in a Gothic style that is unusual for La Rioja. Round towers reinforce the corners, so it looks more like a small fortress than a place of worship. Inside is a single nave and a carved main door dating from 1532. It faces the main square and the Echaurren hotel.
The old centre — Plaza del Quiosco & Plaza de la Verdura
Traditional three-storey houses line a set of arcaded squares, chief among them the Plaza del Quiosco and the Plaza de la Verdura. You walk under the porticoes from one square to the next, out of the sun. These houses once served as both homes and warehouses for the wool trade. Look up as you go and you will spot coats of arms carved above several doorways. It is an easy, flat wander of maybe half an hour.
Real Fábrica de Paños (old wool factory)
The old cloth factory sits by the river. Built in the 18th century, it was the engine of the town for a hundred years, and even the king held a share in it. After a restoration it now houses the town hall and a hostel. The building marks the moment Ezcaray turned from a farming village into a place of industry and stone mansions.
Ermita de la Virgen de Allende
Above the town stands the shrine of the town’s patron saint. The Baroque chapel was finished in 1670 and holds painted murals inside. It is a short trip up from the centre and gives a wide view over the rooftops and the valley. Locals carry the image down into town for the main festival each September.
What to Do in Ezcaray
Walk the Oja greenway (Vía Verde del Oja)
The greenway follows an old railway line along the valley floor. The flat, well-made path runs from Ezcaray down toward Santo Domingo de la Calzada, so it suits both an easy stroll and a longer bike ride. It passes fields, streams, and small villages, with the mountains always in view. Bring water in summer, as much of the route has little shade.
Ski or drive up to Valdezcaray
The ski resort lies about 15 kilometres above the town, high in the Sierra de la Demanda — a 25-minute climb by road. In winter its runs draw skiers from across northern Spain, with slopes for most levels. Out of season you can drive the access road up and walk from the top station across open mountain. Check conditions before you set out, as mountain weather changes fast.
Hike into the Sierra de la Demanda
For walkers, the mountains rise straight from the town. Marked long-distance paths such as the GR 93 cross the range, and shorter loops start near the centre. The reward is beech woods, high pasture, and long views. Spring and autumn are the kindest seasons, when the air is cool and the colours turn.
Prefer to go with a guide for any of this? Ask where you’re staying, or at the tourist office on Calle Sagastía (shared with the town library) — they’ll know what’s running, in which language, and can point you to something that fits.
Seasonal Events and Festivals
San Lorenzo (mid-August)The town’s patron-saint festival fills the squares with processions and music for a few days, and the streets stay busy late. Beds sell out well ahead, so book early if you want to be here for it.
Ski season (roughly December to March)Valdezcaray opens when the snow allows; the town fills with skiers at weekends. Dates shift with the weather each year.
For exact dates each year, check the town’s official information office (Ayuntamiento de Ezcaray).
Getting There and Around
Ezcaray sits at the western edge of La Rioja, off the main wine routes, up the Oja valley from Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
From Santo Domingo de la Calzadaabout 15 minutes by car via the LR-111 (roughly 14 km); direct buses run several times a day.
From Nájeraabout 25 minutes by car.
From Haroabout 40 minutes by car (roughly 34 km).
From Logroñoabout 47 minutes by car via the A-12 then LR-111 (roughly 60 km); direct buses run daily.
Nearest airports Bilbao (BIO) is the closest major gateway, about 1 hour 15 minutes (roughly 109 km); Pamplona and Santander are alternatives further out.
By busEzcaray is connected to Logroño, Nájera, Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Haro by regular regional lines; the station is a short walk from the centre.
Getting around
You’ll want a car here. The town itself is small and easy to walk, and you can leave the car near the centre without much trouble. But the point of the area is the drives around it — to the wine towns, the monasteries at San Millán de la Cogolla, and the mountains — so a car earns its keep across the region even though you won’t need it inside Ezcaray.
Looking for a ready-made plan? See our La Rioja routes.
Practical Info
- Getting aroundThe old centre is flat and walkable; park near it. A car is needed for the wider region.
- Ticketing & hoursThe sights ask for little planning. The church and the ermita keep shorter hours out of season, so check before a special trip.
- ClimateThe mountain kind. Summers are mild for Spain, with August highs around 26°C. The most comfortable months run April to October, roughly 15–23°C by day. Rain is heaviest in spring (May is the wettest month) and late autumn; winter brings snow.
- Best time of dayLate afternoon into evening — the squares are at their best once day-trippers leave.
- Plan around the season and the closing daysEzcaray runs on two rhythms: the ski season and the summer walking season. The ski season is roughly December to early April, snow permitting. Between the two — in late autumn and the quieter weeks of spring — some restaurants and the ski lifts close, and the town is at its sleepiest. It’s a small town, so the good kitchens book up at weekends and in August. Several also close on different weekdays (see Where to Eat). If you’re travelling on a Monday or Tuesday, check ahead — you don’t want to arrive to find your first three choices shut.
Where to Eat in Ezcaray
You’ll eat and drink very well in Ezcaray, at every budget — and for a town of barely two thousand people, that is a real surprise. This is home to one of Spain’s most respected family kitchens, alongside plain bars around the squares serving honest Riojan cooking: caparrones (the local red beans), game in season, and Rioja by the glass. Two simple rules make it easy: for lunch while you’re out walking, the arcaded squares are full of good-value spots; for dinner, book ahead in the warmer months, when the town is busy.
The gastronomic restaurant inside the Echaurren hotel, and the most decorated kitchen in La Rioja — it was the first in the region to win a Michelin star, and later the first to reach two. The cooking reworks Riojan roots with a modern hand across two tasting menus. A destination table; book well ahead. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays — check ahead.
The Echaurren’s traditional dining room, where the family’s classic Rioja cooking is served — croquettes, stews, game and roasts, with a deep wine list. More relaxed and more affordable than El Portal next door, and a favourite for a proper long lunch.
A well-regarded kitchen in a restored old house with a garden, strong on bean stews and game done simply and well. Rooms upstairs too. Closed Mondays — check ahead.
An old-town favourite with a good terrace and a serious wine focus, known for roast lamb and hearty Riojan plates. Closed Wednesdays — check ahead.
A lively local bar on the edge of the centre, full of regulars, with a good spread of tapas and a sunny terrace. An easy, honest lunch stop. Closed Tuesdays — check ahead.
A small, carefully stocked wine bar and shop where the owner will steer you to the right bottle, with tinned delicacies and gourmet bites to go with it. Open weekends mainly — check ahead.
Where to Stay in Ezcaray
Stay the night and Ezcaray changes. The day-trippers drive back down the valley, the arcades empty, and the cool mountain evening settles over the squares — a glass under the porticoes, a long dinner, and nothing to rush back for. Here’s where we’d sleep.
Hotel Echaurren
The town’s landmark hotel, run by the same family for five generations, with its celebrated restaurants downstairs. Stylish rooms, a warm welcome, and the church framed in the window when you wake. The obvious choice for a special stay.
Check prices & availability for Hotel Echaurren on the accommodation's websitePalacio Azcárate
A handsome hotel in a restored palace in the centre, with a garden, a café and comfortable rooms. Easy walking to the squares and good value for the setting.
Check prices & availability for Palacio Azcárate on the accommodation's websiteHotel Casa Masip
Eleven rooms in a lovingly restored 1800s manor house, rustic stone and wood with modern touches, plus a well-liked kitchen and a garden. A characterful, central base.
Check prices & availability for Hotel Casa Masip on the accommodation's websiteApartamentos Turísticos Rincones del Vino
Well-equipped self-catering apartments in the centre, rustic in feel but warm and spotless, with a thoughtful welcome. Good for a couple or a family who want their own space and a kitchen.
Check prices & availability for Apartamentos Turísticos Rincones del Vino on the accommodation's websiteReal Valle Ezcaray
Roomy apartments with mountain views a short walk from town, handy for families and for anyone heading up to Valdezcaray.
Check prices & availability for Real Valle Ezcaray on Booking.comAlbergue La Cuculla
A simple, friendly, good-value place in an old building near the centre — spacious rooms and a sociable feel, popular with walkers and skiers. The budget pick.
Check prices & availability for Albergue La Cuculla on the accommodation's website
Region, Nearby and Routes
Part of La Rioja
Ezcaray is in La Rioja
Part of these routes
Ezcaray is not part of a route yet. See all routes
Nearby places
- LogroñoLa Rioja’s relaxed capital, where the Camino, a twin-towered co-cathedral and Spain’s best-loved pintxos street meet at the gateway to the wine region.
- HaroThe wine capital of La Rioja, home to the world’s densest cluster of century-old bodegas and a hilltop old town of tapas bars.
- Santo Domingo de la CalzadaLa Rioja’s great Camino town, with a cathedral that keeps a live rooster and hen and the region’s longest medieval walls.
- NájeraLa Rioja’s old royal capital, where a fortress-like monastery holds thirty kings’ tombs beneath cliffs full of man-made caves.
- BrionesA walled medieval village on a hill in Rioja Alta, home to one of the world’s best wine museums and streets that stay quiet after dark.
Frequently Asked Questions
Ezcaray is worth visiting if you want the mountain side of La Rioja rather than its wine towns. It has one of the region’s best-preserved old centres, cool summer air, valley and mountain walks, and a famous kitchen — all with far fewer crowds than the wine trail.
Ezcaray is known as a mountain town in western La Rioja, its arcaded stone squares, the Valdezcaray ski resort above it, and the Echaurren family’s Michelin-star restaurant. It was also once a wool-weaving town with a royal cloth factory.
Ezcaray needs about half a day to see the centre, but it rewards an overnight stay. Arrive in the afternoon for the squares and dinner, then walk the Oja greenway or head into the mountains the next morning.
You don’t ski in Ezcaray itself, but the Valdezcaray resort sits about 15 kilometres above the town, a 25-minute drive up. It’s the ski area for this part of Spain, best for beginners and intermediates, and the town is where most skiers sleep and eat. The season usually runs from around December to early April, but it depends on snow — check the resort’s snow report before you travel.
The best time to visit Ezcaray is April to October for walking, when days are roughly 15–23°C and summer highs sit around 26°C — mild for Spain. Spring and late autumn are the wettest; winter brings snow and the ski season.
You can do Ezcaray as a day trip from Logroño — it’s about 47 minutes by car — but you’ll see it at its best if you stay the night, once the day-trippers leave and the town quietens.
In Ezcaray, the landmark Hotel Echaurren is the choice for a special stay, while Palacio Azcárate and Hotel Casa Masip offer characterful mid-range rooms in the centre. For self-catering try Rincones del Vino, and Albergue La Cuculla is the budget pick.
In Ezcaray, the Echaurren complex holds both the two-star El Portal and the more relaxed Echaurren Tradición. For honest Riojan cooking try Casa Masip or El Rincón del Vino, and Bar Roypa is an easy tapas lunch on the square.